The 2004 Tinto Pesquera (Crianza), from a great vintage, is opaque purple with a fragrant nose of lead pencil, earth, black currants, and blackberry liqueur that jumps from the glass. This is followed by a sexy wine with layered blue and black fruits intertwined with ripe tannins and good acidity. This superb, beautifully balanced effort should evolve for 4-6 years and drink well for another 10-15. Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle, WA.; tel. (206) 297-6713

Early aromas of jelly donut, hot asphalt and leather are scattershot, but with time and airing the wine pulls itself together to show deep berry flavors, prune and a touch of burnt toast. It’s a firm, serious Tempranillo, but at $33 it makes you long for the time when it was half the price and just as good, if not better.——M.S.(6/1/2007)—— 88