We finished the tasting with the 2004 Cornas, and it’s an outstanding, layered, medium-bodied effort that has plenty of kirsch, leather, incense and dried flower-like aromas and flavors. Drinking nicely today, I’d enjoy bottles over the coming couple of years. Always a fun visit, this small vertical took place in Clape’s cellar in Cornas, with Pierre-Marie Clape, who’s now running the estate. We also tasted through multiple barrels of their 2012s and 2013s, but I’ll wait and include that commentary in the northern Rhone report due out in October. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

There are always two cuvees of Cornas, and like some of the most traditional producers I taste, the wines are often better out of bottle than the barrel and/or foudre samples. That is the case with 2004, where both wines revealed significantly more flavor and intensity than they did last year. The 2004 Cornas, which is essentially a selection of their older vines, has zesty acidity, an opaque purple color, full-bodied power, and wonderful sweet blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with some smoke, scorched earth, and new saddle leather. It’s a beauty, rich, full, and while accessible, it promises to last for 12-15 years.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Seems to have almost a hint of acetate on the nose, but there’s no evidence of volatility on the mildly creamy palate, where bright cherry fruit is accented by cracked peppercorns. Turns a bit chewier on the finish, but remains balanced. Drink 2008–2014.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 90