Indigenous grape varietals are playing more important roles in the world’s wines (despite the falsehoods promoted in the disingenuous movie, Mondovino), and the 2003 Aglianico Contado IGT is fashioned from 100% Aglianico that has been reclaimed by Riccardo Cotarella. It is a stunning Italian red. Notes of crushed rocks, acacia flowers, almond paste, blackberries, and currants jump from the glass of this opaque ruby/purple-colored offering. Boasting fabulous intensity, medium to full body, beautiful purity, and nicely integrated acidity, wood, and tannin, it was aged in both large neutral oak ovals and smaller barrels. This wine represents incredible value for the money. A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9868.