The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Ethos is a blend of 50% Cold Creek and 50% Wahluke Slope fruit. It is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. Purple/black in color, it exhibits toasty oak aromas, pencil lead, spice box, blackberry, and black licorice. The wine has an extra layer of richness, full body, superb balance, and gobs of sweet fruit. It will evolve for 4-6 years and be at its best from 2012 to 2025.Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date.Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

From a great vintage, this top-line Ste. Michelle Cab includes just 8% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot in the blend. The goal is obviously deep, dark, dense and rich flavors, and the arrow hits the mark. Though not as hugely ripe and saturated as cult Cabs costing three to five times as much, this is balanced, detailed and loaded with black fruits, spice, smoke and tar. It’s got some chalky acids, which need a bit more time to soften up, but shows the structure to be cellared for a decade or more.——P.G.(6/1/2009)—— 90