The massive 1994 is unquestionably the finest Dow I have tasted since the 1977. This opaque purple-colored wine is not as developed or flamboyant as Fonseca, but it is super-concentrated and multi-layered, with huge masses of fruit and some tannin in the finish. This is a slightly drier style than Fonseca or Graham's, but it appears to be a classic, majestic, enormously constituted 1994 that should age effortlessly for three decades or more. It is one of the stars of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2030.Importer: Premium Ports and Madeiras; Sausalito, CA; tel. (415) 331-7656

The 1994 Vintage Port is set for re-release. It has about 92 grams per liter of residual sugar. It's a beauty, with all that Dow power and structure that I've loved over the years--even after some hours of decanting. Intensely concentrated in flavor, without being jammy, this lingers on the gripping finish after starting with a touch of mint. Serious and brooding, it is not yet as complex and as developed as it could be--but this is Port and that will come in time. Be patient. In the meanwhile, if you must crack this now, give it a few hours in a decanter, to state the obvious. This is a terrific Dow's VP that is still growing and improving. It is still about its potential in some ways and it may well exceed expectations. It will certainly acquire even more complexity with more cellaring. Personally, I would try to give it at least another decade in the cellar.