The 2002 Brut Millesime Exception is wonderfully crisp and vibrant, with layers of green apples, pears and flowers that come together in a highly appealing glass of Champagne. The 2002 Exception is very young at this stage, but with air some of the austerity blows off, revealing the crystalline purity of the fruit. This elegant, precise Champagne will be even better in a few years’ time. This is Lot LP 1606810, disgorged March, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This is a strong set of new releases from Drappier, with the exception of the roses, which fall a bit short of the quality level the estate achieves with its other wines. All of the wines show lot numbers, but not disgorgement dates.Importer: A. Hardy USA, Des Plaines, IL; tel. (847) 298-2358.

This is a balanced wine, moving easily between rich fruit and a tight mineral and grapefruit texture. There is a hint of toast to give extra weight. Worth aging for several years.——R.V.(12/1/2010)—— 92