As usual, Ponzi Vineyards’ 2009 Pinot Noir Tavola is an outstanding value. It is a blend of multiple vineyards from several AVAs made in a forward, easy-going style. It is sourced from younger vines generally at lower elevations. Medium ruby red, it exhibits an inviting nose of spice box, rose petal, cherry, and raspberry leading to a savory, ripe, tasty offering with good volume and length. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

Luisa Ponzi does such an excellent job with her top of the line Pinots that it is no surprise that this entry-level bottle really shines. Immaculate fruit, polished tannins, a vivacious, fruit-laden mouthfeel, all combine into a wine that has both suppleness and varietal power. It does not have the density of the pricier siblings, but it makes up for it with food-friendly acidity.——P.G.(6/1/2011)—— 88