The 2004 Barolo is an anomaly in this line-up. The wine is made in a much more traditional style than the house’s other wines, paying homage to the estate’s tradition of having produced Barolo in the past. Coppo’s 2004 Barolo was made from vineyards in Castiglione Falletto and spent three years in cask. Mentholated, balsamic notes waft from the glass, followed by spices, cherries, licorice and leather. The wine offers lovely purity in a very classic style, with firm tannins that will require at least a few years to soften. That said, it is a fairly accessible Barolo in this vintage and probably be a wine that will offer its most enjoyment over the medium term. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Coppo’s basic Barolo shows slightly aged characteristics that comes forth as old leather, Indian spice, furniture wax, candied fruit, black licorice, road tar and dried plums. In the mouth, the wine is warm and welcoming with intense layers of drying mineral and mature fruit.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 90