While some houses now release their single-quinta wines just two years after the harvest, others hold them until they are deemed mature. This recent release from Dow's is a boon to vintage Port lovers who lack adequate cellaring facilities, or to restaurateurs who don't want to hit the auction circuit. Prunes and plums combine with tea and spice notes in this fully mature wine, with subtle hints of maple sugar and anise coming up on the finish.——J.C.(12/1/2004)—— 88