The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is excellent, and one of the high points of the range, unwinding in the glass with a reserved bouquet of cherries, red berries, peony and orange rind, with a little hint of the savory complexity to come. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tight-knit, chalky but multidimensional core underpinned by bright animating acids, concluding with a long, mineral finish. This will need a decade or more in bottle to unwind but will be excellent in the fullness of time.