The first thoughts on this wine are how young it is, and how much potential it shows. The immaturity lies in the primary fruit, acidic character, like a big gulp of fruity cola. But the wine’s awesome future is in its vast complexity and balance, and the way it dominates the palate and lasts and lasts. A blend of several vineyards, it’s high in acidity, with massive cherry, pomegranate, rhubarb preserve, licorice, earthy mushroom and cedar flavors. So balanced and dry, so elegant and powerful, so silky and complex, it is quite simply a very great Pinot Noir, and an early indication that the vintage on the far Sonoma Coast may be the greatest ever. Tasted twice.——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 98