Spanier’s 2008 Florsheimer Frauenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs – from broad terraces between Molsheim and Niederflosheim – is cool and restrained in both its aromatics and palate impression of honeydew melon, herbs, and raw almond. Subtle creaminess of texture is allied to slightly less sheer refreshment than exhibited by the corresponding village wine, but a finish of levity and admirable length make this a refined, elegant, if understated Riesling for its genre, while nips of fruit skin and citrus zest lend pungency and invigoration. Oliver Spanier – for a bit about whose distinctive sites and methods see issue 185 – harvested his 2008 vintage Rieslings from mid-October through the first week of November, and reports having performed no de-acidification.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799