The new estate that Michel Chapoutier co-owns in Coteaux d'Aix en Provence produces three levels of wine. The most commercial level is Les Matines, the richer second level is Beates, and the third level is the luxury cuvee from old vines called Terra d'Or, a wine with Domaine Trevallon-like richness and complexity. The 1996 Les Matines is a peppery, licorice, smoky-scented wine with a dark ruby color, copious quantities of black cherries and Provencal herbs in its flavors, light tannin, and good flesh. It is the perfect wine to serve with hamburgers, pizza, and barbequed foods.