With a deep amber color and luminous copper highlights, this Moscato-based dessert wine from central Italy boasts pretty aromas of caramel, chestnut honey, pinecone and candied orange. There are well-integrated toasted or nutty notes in the background. It’s a full and sophisticated wine with a masculine, brooding personality and lightly candied fruit on the close. ——M.L.(12/15/2008)—— 91