Two hearts seem to dwell in the breast of Diel’s 2004 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs. On the one hand, the wine is so brothy, meaty, and saturated with chalky, stony minerality that it could be white Burgundy; on the other hand there is a bright, almost sharp citricity. The nose, too, exhibits some of this duality, along with a heady, musky floral bouquet. In any event, this is impressively complex, long wine that will appeal to rock hounds more than fruit lushes. I’m sure this needs some time to collect itself in bottle, where it had been for only two weeks when I tasted. Incidentally, readers with the requisite disposable income are urged to explore Diel’s 2003 T.B.A. (from the Pittermanchen), which was unfortuitously also being bottled the day I visited. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300