Malat’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Dreigarten mingles an odd hint of smoke with fresh herbs in the nose. But on the palate, it’s soft and juicy, polished in texture, with mint-tinged melon and cucumber, finishing clean and refreshing, with a reprise of subtly smoky pungency. Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.