The 2008 Esprit de Beaucastel ‘Panoplie’ flows with the essence of dark plums, black cherries, licorice and leather. It is bigger, richer and darker than the straight Esprit, with more inner palate sweetness and sheer power. Tar, spices, iron, crushed rocks and a host of other dark aromas and flavors give the Panoplie much of its distinctive brooding, inward personality. In 2008 the Panoplie is 54% Mourvedre, 29% Grenache and 17% Syrah. This is a fabulous effort from Tablas Creek. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Tablas Creek was founded as a partnership between Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Robert Haas, owner of Beaucastel’s US importer, Vineyard Brands. Tablas Creek is one of the pioneers for Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, not just for the quality of the wines, but just as importantly for creating a nursery of clones from Beaucastel cuttings that are now used widely throughout the region. The estate currently has about 105 acres under vine. Tablas Creek works with indigenous yeasts and favors large, neutral oak barrels and casks for aging. Vintage 2009 was the third in a series of drought years for the estate, which along with a severe spring frost reduced yields dramatically to less than 1.85 tons per acre. The wines, though, are striking. Vintage 2010 could not have been more different. There was no spring frost. Instead the estate received a whopping 44 inches of rain. A cold summer led to a late harvest that started during the second half of October and lasted until early November. Readers will find a broad range of compelling bottles across all price ranges. As an aside, Tablas Creek is one of the highest-quality estates in California that has the facilities and capacity to receive visitors.Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com