The 2005 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron is a blockbuster that offers everything you could want from a Cote Rotie. Made from 100% Syrah and all from schist soils, it was completely destemmed and spent 12 months in 30% new barrels. It has a terrific perfume of smoked meats, licorice, chocolatey dark fruits and dusty rock to go with a medium to full-bodied, thick, unctuous profile on the palate. I can’t say it’s a classic Cote Rotie, but it’s nevertheless one thrill ride of a drink today. Given its concentration and overall balance, it will continue to drink nicely for another 10-15 years.

The gorgeous, dense ruby/purple-hued 2005 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron offers abundant aromas of bacon fat, tapenade, black cherries, and black currants. Medium to full-bodied with good acidity, high tannin, and beautifully layered sweet fruit, it should be at its finest between 2012-2025. As I have written many times in the past, this famous estate, which muddled along in the seventies, eighties, and early nineties, was reborn when its owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne enterprise, brought in the super-talented Jacques Granges, and gave him carte blanche to redo the cellars and elevate the level of quality. Since his first vintage, 1997, Delas has become one of the superb purveyors of high quality Rhone wine. I have enormous admiration for what Granges has accomplished. His most recent vintages, 2005 and 2006, have been brilliant and he continues to do a superb job with the white wines Readers should also know that Delas recently purchased 37 acres of vines in Crozes-Hermitage, so they will be augmenting their production from that appellation. The bottled 2005 reds include some interesting efforts from some of the better villages in the south. The Chateauneuf du Papes and Cotes du Rhones were reviewed in issue #173 (October, 2007)Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Really pure, with lush fig, raspberry and boysenberry fruit backed by dark toast, fruitcake, black tea and incense notes. Long and lush through the finish, this has great integration already, but will improve more with cellaring. Best from 2010 through 2022. 830 cases made. -JM

Although there’s only about 20% new oak used in this cuvee, it is somewhat apparent on the nose and palate, where cedar, cinnamon and clove take the lead. There’s some pretty—some might say Burgundian—fruit, but it’s a touch light and herbal.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 87