Despite hailing from warm Languedoc-Roussillon, this wine shows much of the earthy restraint of the Rhone, home base of Delas Freres. Barnyard notes mix with cedar aromas and muted red fruits on the nose while concentrated raspberry and ash notes infuse the palate. Grippy but polished tannins provide a frame for the plum-flavored finish.——W.E.(3/1/2009)—— 84