The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich comes (like last year’s version) from the Loibenberg. The Pichlers elected to start putting Smaragd on the label to forestall questions about the style of the wine, although arguably the Unendlich bottlings have tended to inhabit a stylistic world of their own. Supremely opulent but free of heat, this 15% alcohol Riesling offers apricot preserve and marzipan flavors on its creamy palate, yet tastes dry. A bitter note of apricot kernel offers welcome contrast. As dense as this is, it is probably going to show additional complexity with time, and arguably could age well for over a decade, the effect today is almost overwhelmingly rich and texturally alluring. Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800

With its label depicting the Queen of the Night in Mozart’s Magic Flute opera, this is a huge and dry wine, despite its 20% botrytis. A wine to admire for its concentration, it demands attention as well as aging.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 94