The Pouilly-Fuisse displays flint, metal, and stone aromas as well as a silky-textured, focused, medium-bodied, and bright personality filled with powerful and persistent flavors of gravel and lemon peel. It should be at its best between now and 2003. Both of Guffens' Pouilly-Fuisse's are first rate. How does he do it? He starts by reserving as much top-flight grapes as he can from growers. Then he vinifies the wine and sorts out cuvees he does not like, selling them to other negociants (last year Guffens sold 28,000 liters of Pouilly-Fuisse to other merchants, enough to make 37,300 bottles, or more than 3,100 cases).A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines.A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.