The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl – harvested in early November – returns us to something of the clarity displayed by the corresponding Federspiel. Certainly this is wonderfully ripe, but not so boisterously esterous nor aggressive in the manner of the Kaiserberg and Hollerin. Citrus oils, peach kernel, and pungent floral notes combine for a piquant aromatic and palate impression, with underlying suggestions of toasted nuts and chalk, and a long, invigorating finish. I’d plan to follow this for 5-7 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The Steinriegl vineyard fruit results in a tight, structured Riesling. The fruit is taut and very crisp, with acidity and flavors of green apples and citrus. At the moment, it is showing fresh fruit, but the potential is considerable, a wine that will age over 10 years at least.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 94