If you love Italian indigenous grapes, it's impossible not to be fascinated by the Bovale variety that is found primarily on the island of Sardinia. Thanks to that relative isolation, the 2014 Bovale Essentija is a distinct wine that is characterized by a deeply saturated appearance and brambly notes that absolutely recall the myrtle berry bushes that grow abundantly and wildly all over the island. There is a touch of exotic spice as well, with some cardamom or sweet clove, making a great pairing for a stewed lamb dish. The wine ages in 1,000-liter oak casks for two years. Some 9,800 bottles were made. The 2014 vintage is weaker overall, but the wine carries its weight nonetheless.