2004 was a much less challenging vintage in Gigondas than 2003, and the 2004 Gigondas Vieilles Vignes exhibits sweet tannin and a big, ripe, floral nose interwoven with black cherries and black currants, some flowers and pepper. Deep, medium to full-bodied, with good acidity and fine length, it is an elegant but powerful Gigondas that should drink well for at least a decade. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808 and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029

My only gripe with the Tardieu-Laurent wines is not their overall quality—I found every one I tasted to be very good—but that the use of oak obscures some of their more delicate characteristics, at least at this young stage. This Gigondas is wonderfully perfumed with vanilla and a vast array of dried spices, and it shows richly supple fruit notes of cherry and apricot. It’s delicious now—in its own way—but maybe the wood will be more effectively integrated in a couple of years. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 88