From contract fruit, the Marc Morey 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts is dominated by nut oils, lime, white peach, and honey, playing against chalk, salt and iodine, in a display that hints at Chablis or at Riesling. This is silken-textured, irresistibly luscious, and forward, yet not without mineral fascination, and lingeringly savory. I would expect it to perform well for 5-6 years, but can see no other good reason to wait. Bernard Mollard began picking September 3 and brought in his crop in short order, in the end chaptalizing no more than half a degree. His wines underwent malolactic conversion already by early Spring – typical at this domaine – and were bottled at one year. The estate’s acreage is supplemented by contracts on five parcels in which they officially act as negociant, but exercise considerable control. “I like the way 2007 respects the terroir,” comments Mollard. “You can well tell the difference from one site to another.” I don’t disagree in general, but a more obvious feature of his 2007 collection – and a very flattering one – is sheer forwardness of ripe fruit, which results in a very strong family resemblance. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083