Sporting a gravel syrup-laden nose, the 2002 Riesling Spatlese Norheimer Kirschheck is broad, ample, plush, and a hedonist’s delight. Hugely rich, fat, and pure, it bastes the palate with slate-immersed black cherries. All Hail the King of Spatlese! Donnhoff’s line-up of Spatlesen is second to none. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2023. For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has left me shaking my head in wonder. Having tasted the greatest wines in the world, year in and year out, as a wine merchant and as a critic, did not prepare me for the awe-inspiring experience of tasting through Donnhoff’s 2001s and 2002s. They are magical, emotional, breath-taking. My words cannot do them justice. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300