The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is performing brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with a textbook bouquet of citrus oil, crisp green apple, Anjou pear, mandarin oil, crushed chalk and struck flint. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's muscular but tight-knit, with racy acids, excellent concentration and a long, mineral finish. From 65-year-old vines planted on the SO4 rootstock, Germain tells me this parcel isn't very vigorous and always gives tiny yields.