The Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet displays rich, toasty honeysuckle aromas and a vibrant, thick, medium-bodied, highly focused core of lemon, steel and stone flavors. It is fat and oily on the attack, but quickly transforms itself into a feminine, lively, and crisp wine that lingers on the palate with floral and mineral notes. This superbly balanced wine will be at its peak between 2003-2007. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A slender, serious, and obviously dedicated man, Jacques Carillon loves the structure and ageworthiness of his family's 1996s. He compared the aging of a wine to a wave, saying the optimum time to drink it is during its crests. He feels his '96s will be in the trough of the wave between 2000 and 2001, and should hit their first crest between 2003 and 2005. I tend to agree with his assessment, and will add what this modest man did not: these are absolutely fabulous examples of elegant, mineral-packed Pulignys that will offer years of enjoyment to those lucky enough to acquire them. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.