From 55-year-old vines, Perrot-Minot’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts Vieilles Vignes (just racked and assembled before I tasted it) displays sweet floral and fresh black raspberry aromas with hints of black tea, cinnamon and cardamom, comes to the palate with obviously sweet, ripe black fruits allied to formidable tannin, and finishes with superb richness, subtly complex minerality, but decidedly dark shadings of flavor. Had this just been lightly sulfured and bottled, Perrot-Minot insists, it would be at least somewhat more vivid as is the Combe d’Orveaux today. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.