Richter’s 2009 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese needs to shed a slightly cheesy overtone, and while it reveals persistent, juicy citricity and invigorating suggestions of things mineral, there is a tightness to accompany its brightness that may either be on account of slight reduction and/or be a measure of the challenges to harmonious ripeness in Veldenz’s unusual sites, in a vintage where this estate’s vines were almost universally late to ripen and reluctant to shed acidity. Still, this Spatlese is impressive for sheer vitality and invigoration; deserves to be revisited near-term; and doubtless has at least 15 years of (perhaps rudely good) health ahead of it. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800