The 2009 Meursault Charmes is soft, seamless and totally seductive as it caresses the palate with layers of expressive fruit. This is a gorgeous, understated Charmes that is simply wonderful today. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well.A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2009 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes from Pierre-Yves Colin is sitting in a sweet spot, though don't be afraid of keeping it in your cellar for another decade or two. Yet it is offering so much at the moment. It has an expressive bouquet that translates the lushness and precocity of the growing season - tropical fruit, almond and a hint of vanilla. What I like about this Meursault is that Pierre-Yves managed to lock in the acidity in order to counter the ripeness. The texture here is quite rounded, almost honeyed compared to other vintages but that acidity keeps a tight rein on things. It's just a delightful, opulent Meursault Charmes.