The 2009 Marsannay shows more volume and textural richness than the Bourgogne but perhaps just a touch less in the way of aromatic complexity. It, too, is an absolutely gorgeous wine to drink now and over the next few years. Layers of generous fruit wrap around the soft, textured finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Is there anything Bruno Clair doesn’t do well? Clair is best known for his sublime reds among Burgundy aficionados, but his whites (and the Marsannay rose) are equally deserving of attention. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, MelRose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151