Densely packed aromas of tobacco, mushroom and earth yield ever-so-slowly to barnyard, mint and currant aromas. Even at nine years of age, it's tight and beneefits from some airing in a decanter. Pleasant plum and black-cherry flavors emerge with time, but the real story here is the finish, which is show-stopping: long, multifaceted and intense.——W.E.(10/1/2000)—— 90