The 2007 Das Beste vom Gruner Veltliner is, as usual with this bottling, technically an Auslese, a fact noted in tiny print on the label. Once again as well, it reached relatively high (14%) alcohol, but with absolutely no negative side effects. What has often been an imposingly rich, ample wine – and this year is no exception – has not, I think, suffered from the decision to from now on eliminate the wine’s stay in barrel, a decision taken as Gerald Malat puts it, “to integrate it into the line” of other Gruner Veltliner here. And unlike in many other years, this time the wine tastes dry. Rhubarb, red fruits, tobacco, malt, and pepper inform a palate of almost custard-like richness of texture, leading to a long, finish that preserves invigorating tartness while offering low-toned, malted richness and saline, subtly animal savor. This should prove rewarding over at least the next 6-8 years. Only the two lightest of Gerald and Michael Malat’s Gruner Veltliner were harvested in October, the rest in November. “We simply had to wait for things to dry out,” explains Gerald Malat, “and to me there is a clear difference between any of the wines harvested before and those harvested after the big rains. Those harvested long enough afterward are more multi-layered.” Among the most notable characteristics of this estate is the sheer number of grape varieties with which it often succeeds. But while Gruner Veltliner and Riesling here were notable in quality this year, intensely aromatic Muskateller and Sauvignon bottlings were too brusque and coarse to merit high recommendation. A sampling of Pinot Gris from barrel was promising but will need to be re-tasted for a proper appraisal. It is good to know that the wines of this estate may soon gain wider distribution in the U.S., but due to the recent change in importers, retail prices were not yet available for any of their 2007s.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com