Made from 100% Grenache (60-year old vines planted in one of the region’s coolest terroirs), the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin sees no new oak, contrary to what readers may have heard elsewhere. The saturated purple/plum color is followed by a big, sweet bouquet of raspberries, black kirsch liqueur, and a hint of white flowers. Chewy and full-bodied, with slightly more structure and tannin than usual, this surprisingly elegant yet full-flavored 2001 will benefit from another 1-3 years of cellaring. The most backward and structured Chaupin made between 1998 and 2001, it could easily be mistaken for a top grand cru red Burgundy from a great vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2015. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Also classic in style, yet still structured and lively, the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin started out tight and reserved, yet opened up beautifully in the glass to show complex crushed flowers, white pepper, garrigue and kirsch. Like the traditional cuvee, it has plenty of grip and structure, and will have another 3-5 years of solid drinking. One of the benchmark estates in the Rhone Valley, Domaine de la Janasse is run by the talented brother/sister pair of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon. Located in the northeastern portion of the region, near Courthezon, they produce an incredible range of wines, from their Vin de Pays, to their Cotes du Rones and world-class Chateauneuf du Papes, all of which are noteworthy. For this tasting, we started with the 1990s and went up through their 2007s. At this point, the ‘98s through the 2004s are all in varying degrees of full maturity, and drinking brilliantly. In addition, it’s also worth pointing out that these wines have the fruit and texture to dish out immense pleasure in their youth, so don’t be afraid to crack these new releases either. Both of the 1999s were drinking beautifully, and are up near the top of the vintage. Moving to the 2000s, I found that from this point forward, the wines started to show more freshness and vibrancy. Looking specifically at this vintage, these are still mature wines, yet they’re drinking beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

A 100% Grenache wine which is made from 60-year-old vines grown on sandy soil, giving a mineral character to the wine. At this stage, when it is young, it is quite austere, but the tannins and big, dry fruit flavors promise a great future for this classic Chateauneuf. ——R.V.(3/1/2004)—— 92