The 2009 Pinot Noir Rochioli Riverblock Vineyard is a big, burly wine loaded with dark fruit. This is one of the richer wines in this lineup, and needs at least another year in bottle for some of the baby fat to melt off. Spices, licorice and dried flowers wrap around the dense, muscular finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

A triumph, one of the greatest Riverblock bottings in years. This always is a captivating wine, but the ’09 is particularly scrumptious. Although it’s quite tannic and acidic, it’s forward enough in raspberries, cherries and cola to enjoy now. But it’s bone dry and as elegant as California Pinot Noir gets. The balance suggests an ability to age for a good 10 years, if not longer.——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 96