The 2007 Pinot Noir shows a little more ripeness and exoticism on the nose, smudged at first but gaining clarity with aeration. The palate has more weight and concentration than the 2006, black cherry, plum and black olive on the entry, sturdy tannins yet retaining finesse with a primal, broody finish. Great potential. There are winemakers and then there is the one and only CP Lin. This is someone who puts his neck on the line when it comes to winemaking and I have found his wines to be either valiant failures or stunning successes. Whatever you may think, it is always exciting to open a bottle of Mountford and New Zealand needs people like CP. No known US importer.

A terrific example of Waipara Pinot Noir, Mountford’s 2007 Estate bottling combines savory, herbal notes with black cherry and plum fruit into a wine of great complexity and nuance. The tannins are supple, lending a silky tinge to the long, meaty finish. Drink now–2015, although that may prove conservative. Just 50 cases imported. ——J.C.(9/1/2011)—— 92