The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is among the most reserved wines in the cellar, unfurling in the glass with a reticent bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and light reduction that wasn't revealing its full range when I tasted it. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with broad shoulders and evident power, concluding with a stony finish, but the full extent of its quality is hard to read.