The 2004 Chardonnay Russian River is showing even better than it did last year, with smoky hazelnuts, buttered popcorn, citrus oil and lemon juice notes. It is a beautiful Chardonnay to drink over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Bob Cabral has crafted a wine that combines purity of fruit with power and silky elegance. The wine explodes with baked apricot, nectarine and guava flavors, the kind of fruit filling that oozes out of a buttery tart fresh from the oven. Yet bright acidity balances it out. Oak adds the perfect touch of vanilla and marzipan.——S.H.(11/1/2006)—— 93