Stylish and tight, with compact flavors of cassis, black cherry and berry in a wrap of baby fat. This muscular Cab has the toasty joie de vivre of a new Bordeaux, without all the herbal stuff. New (as of 2003) winemaker Kevin Mott seems to have solved the issues that were creating severely reduced, hard-as-nails wines in recent vintages. ——P.G.(11/15/2006)—— 91