In a 2008, the 13 grams of residual sugar harbored by Albert Mann’s 2009 Pinot Gris Rosenberg would scarcely be noticed as such, but in this relatively low-acid and 14% alcohol context, a sense of sweetness is inescapable, although it tends to fit the wine’s brown-spiced poached peach character. Pink grapefruit juice and saline, alkaline mineral notes lend some sense of refreshment and invigoration, but cannot overcome a bit of finishing heat. There was a rather reductive aura to the aromas (and in some instances I suspect that this estate’s reliance on screw caps might enhance such a tendency) that diminished slightly with time. This should be revisited before anybody is tempted to cellar it. Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

A fresh, juicy white, with a smoky baseline to the flavors of green pear, persimmon and pink grapefruit. Structured by racy acidity, this balances a lightly honeyed quality with its fruit flavors and fennel seed, orange peel and floral notes, followed by a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2021. 100 cases imported.??–AN??Region: France / Alsace Select to Add