Zenato’s 2005 Valpolicella Classico Superiore is a dark brooding wine loaded with character. An array of smoke, earthiness, game and dark cherries emerge from this hearty, classically-styled Valpolicella which also happens to be a great introduction to the wines of the region. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Zenato is a producer I have long admired for their traditionally-styled Amarone and Valpolicella. Some of their entry-level wines are made in a more commercial style, and while quality can be variable, the best of these wines merit attention. Sadly, as I finished this article I heard of the passing of Sergio Zenato, a man who had done so much for the wines of Veneto. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620