The 2008 Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills is a bit more serious. Forty percent was barrel-fermented in new oak, 30% in seasoned barrels with the balance in stainless steel. Like the Grand Estates, it was aged for 6-9 months sur lie with weekly batonnage. It gives up aromas of buttered popcorn, pear, spiced apple, and mineral leading to a smooth-textured, ripe Chardonnay with very good volume and concentration. This well-balanced, lengthy effort should drink well for 2-3 years. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington’s largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

H3 is Columbia Crest’s line of wines from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA—the winery’s home turf—and the wines seem to have a bit more cut and flair than the slightly less expensive Columbia Valley bottlings. Here you will find a more complex blend of fruits—starfruit, apple, melon and a hint of banana—and less focus on butter and toast. In other words, more of a food and sipping wine.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 88