The purple-colored 2006 Ethos Syrah offers up a complex perfume of pepper, bacon, smoked meat, blueberry, and blackberry jam. Full-bodied and smooth-textured on the palate, it has layers of savory blue and black fruit, plenty of spice, and excellent depth and concentration. This flavorful, lengthy effort will evolve for 1-2 and drink well through 2018. Chateau Ste. Michelle continues to demonstrate that a winery can be large and quality-oriented at the same time. Their current collection is as good as or better than anything it has done in the past.Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

Sharp and spicy, the Ethos Syrah adds layers and expands into fullness as it breathes over several hours. At first tannic and slightly green, it becomes more and more appealing, the peppery fruit filling out with wild berries and tart acids.——P.G.(12/31/2009)—— 90