Luis Pato’s Bairradas used to be the standouts of the D.O. In a sense they still are, although he has chosen to label them with the regional denomination of Beiras in protest over restrictive practices. In this example, Pato has harnessed the rough tannins and brash acidity of Baga into a rich creamy wine filled with blackberries and anise. It’s still tannic and crisp, but it just needs another 10 years in the cellar to become fully appreciable.——J.C.(11/15/2003)—— 91