Revealing tiny, well-formed bubbles, the 2006 Wedding Cuvee (86% Pinot Noir and 14% Chardonnay aged 3 years on the yeast) offers a chalky, lemon zest, and citrus-scented bouquet, a crisp, medium-bodied style with lots of minerality, outstanding purity, and good length. Hints of nectarine and lemon drops also emerge from this sparkler. It should drink well for 2-4 years. This is an impressive group of sparkling wines from Joy Sterling and her team at Iron Horse.Tel. (707) 887-1507; fax (707) 887-1337

Made, as usual, in a slightly sweeter style, with the dosage adding a honeyed note to the rich lime, tart red apple, smoke and brioche flavors. Delicious now, with great charm and elegance.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 91