The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Grande Montagne displays a pretty bouquet of pear, waxy lemon rind and pastry cream, followed by a full-bodied, oily palate that's open-knit and expansive but would benefit from a touch more cut and tension. Readers prepared to overlook that defect and admire the wine's sheer scale will want to add a couple of points to my score.