The Hirtzberger 2007 Neuburger Selection – harvested at the beginning of November – makes yet another delicious case for this sadly-neglected variety. In fact, I have never tasted better. Subtly nutty, saline, with whiffs of violet and generous ripe apple and pear, this has a liveliness to accompany its creamy richness, a combination of richness and clarity, as well as a toasty almond and hazelnut finish that all remind me of Pinot Blanc. The analysis reveals acidity here not too far below that of a Riesling, which is highly unusual for Neuburger, and donates an uncanny buoyancy. This will serve with striking versatility at table for the next 5-6 years at least, and probably much longer. If only thousands – as opposed to at most a few hundred – wine lovers could taste and discover this (preferably with a meal or two)!Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700