With respect to the 1990 vintage, the Marchesi di Barolo produced two wines that are probably the finest Barolos they have made in 30 or more years, the Barolo Sarmassa and the Barolo Cannubi. The slightly more impressive is the multi-dimensional, complex 1990 Barolo Cannubi, a fuller-bodied, more concentrated and delineated wine with excellent purity and length. Drink it over the next 10-15 years. The late Sheldon Wasserman probably stated it best in his comprehensive book on the red wines of Italy when he wrote, "Marchesi di Barolo owns 100 acres of vineyards, including some of the best sites in Barolo, a fact unfortunately not evident in their wines." This longtime underachiever has finally begun to turn out rich, complex wines. Importer: Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY; tel. (516) 802-4700.