Weils 2009 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Eiswein exemplifies the split personality that haunts many of its vintage and genre. On the one hand there is an almost treacle-like amalgam of butterscotch and marzipan; on the other, jabbing lemony acidity. To be sure, plenty of luscious pineapple and white peach preserves do something to fill the gap between confection and raw citricity and there is impressive density and persistence on display, but the overall effect is of clashing forces which I would be pleased but surprised to witness ever reaching resolution. Nor can I claim that I would recognize this as a representative of its great site. The brave might want to cellar a few bottles of it (and there are only a few) for the next 6-8 years and determine what direction its headed. As Wilhelm Weil points out, by the time he began harvesting in early October, 2009 – sooner than has been usual under his regime – the grapes had already been hanging for 115 days, and the fact that the weather cooled thereafter and Kiedrichs hillside sites continued to enjoy regular breezes were positive factors in adding further concentration – including of acidity – to the finished wines. In consequence, he insists that “while 2007 and 2008 were very good vintages; 2009 is for our estate on a different level … among my 22 vintages, near the forefront.” Weil is now offering a range of three single-vineyard dry Rieslings in addition to his Erstes Gewachs but says his vision is of a tier of “premier crus” and one of “grand crus,” with only a single dry wine eventually being labeled “Grafenberg.” The issue is not merely academic, I would argue, but has stylistic implications. As my notes indicate, I found the style of Weils allegedly “second” dry Grafenberg from 2009 both more attractive and more recognizably of its site than the corresponding Erstes Gewachs. (For specific differences in approach consult those detailed notes.) Weil further intends to streamline his offerings by eventually reaching some sort of stylistic compromise between his generic Kabinett halbtrocken and his unabashedly sweet Kabinett (both of which characteristically come from the Wasseros), although he admits to some uncertainty about closing what is analytically-speaking a roughly 30 gram gap in residual sugar between these two. As both president of the local VDP chapter and arguably his regions most prominent grower and quality standard bearer, how Wilhelm Weil perceives and elects to act on classificatory, stylistic, and marketing issues can have considerable influence on the future evolution of Rheingau Riesling. Even the least among this years residually sweet Weil offerings is extremely high acid on paper. In most cases, this is positively enervating, although at times strident. Weil indicates that only beyond the level of Spatlese was any significant botrytis present, even then requiring extreme diligence and patience to collect even small volumes. And as in many instances this vintage, the present collections apex of quality does not coincide with its apex in must weights. Imported by Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Lusciously ripe aromas lead to unctuous flavors of apricot tart, peach cobbler and apple strudel. This is long and rich on the finish, with notes of spice, butter and honey supported by fresh acidity. Drink now through 2035. 67 cases made.??–KM??Region: Germany / Rheingau Select to Add

Perhaps a step behind Weil’s other supersweet 2009s, this eiswein remains a prodigious effort. The candied pineapple and golden raisin notes are so intense, so concentrated that they’re almost painful to taste, lingering virtually forever on the finish.——J.C.(3/1/2012)—— 94